As a paid-up member of TIMS for over 20 years, I had
regularly attended TIMS Symposiums around the world
every four years. Sibiu in Romania was the chosen
venue for 2015, based at the ASTRA Museum, an open
air ‘eco-park’ in extensive woodland with lakes and
running water including conference facilities.
As it was a former Iron Curtain country, I was
looking forward to seeing part of this country,
still emerging into the 21st century and grasping
the Economic Community advantages but retaining its
own currency.
After an early morning flight direct from Luton
Airport by Wizz Air, to the little known city of
Sibiu, I was with three other English members,
arriving at our destination by a shared taxi in the
early afternoon. I was booked into the modern
timber framed and clad hostel (Vila Diana) while
other members were largely at the adjacent Hotel Han
Vestem, or the more distant Hilton Hotel about 1km
away. Where-as my accommodation was rather basic,
spartan but most economical, the adjacent hotel was
a little more impressive and was where we shared
breakfast each morning.
Some members had joined the Pre-Symposium trip to
the north of Romania six days before and joined us
during the afternoon.
After
registration we had just a little time to settle in
and get our bearings before a walk to the welcome
dinner, at the ‘Camara Boierului’ restaurant, formed
from a rebuilt great barn, adjacent to the Hilton
Hotel.
It was
good to meet many old friends from past Symposium
and of course all the 15 members of the UK
contingent, many with their wives, but I was the
only one from Hampshire and without my wife Ros.
The total number attending from 23 different
countries was 107.
The modern conference hall was within the main
administrative and conservation building a short
walk away for me, which was very well equipped and
comfortable, with the advantage of air conditioning
Firstly on Sunday morning, the official TIMS welcome
by president, Willem van Bergen, to all the
delegates and introductions from the Managers of the
ASTRA Museum. There are nearly 400 buildings on
this site with the great majority constructed of
timber. Not only many forms of mills (water and
wind) but agricultural stores, wagons, implements,
to shepherds huts and sheep-folds. The daily
maintenance is considerable and the labour force is
high, as the site is open to the public all year
round. Bearing in mind that the wages by general
European levels is very low.
All day Sunday and Monday morning was devoted to the
first of many molinological presentations by members
from around the world, thankfully all in English.
Monday afternoon included a three hour break to
visit many of the displaced mills, both wind and
water on this very large site from all over
Romania. In a country with a very variable
topography, from mountains to wide plains and
forests, the temperature during our stay was
surprisingly hot around Sibiu, at 30 to 33 degrees
C. Further evening informal presentations usually
continued from 17.30 to 19.00 each day. Our lunches
and evening meals were generally in one of the parks
two restaurants (open to the public).
Tuesday, was a mixed day with the first two hours of
presentation papers with one of the three papers
given by Ton Meesters (NL), on his research of the
‘Tidal Mills in the Low Countries’. My ideal
subject of course. Followed by the departure of two
coach loads of members on a guided walking tour of
medieval central Sibiu. I considered the early town
wall defences, towers and churches as their finest
tourist points. A fine large central square or
‘piata’ was the hub for many locals and the milling
tourists. Our lunch was in the central piata, at
the “Am Ring” hotel restaurant, before a slow
meander back to coaches and back to ASTRA, for more
free time around more mills.
Wednesday required an early start from the Hilton
Hotel by coaches, travelling to the east, visiting
fortified churches at Valea Villor and Bieran,
stopping for lunch at the Dracula Restaurant in
Danes. Before more ancient churches and the
medieval town of Sighisoara. Some are designated
‘UNESCO World Heritage Sites which is assisting the
conservation of these fragile structures
It was tough on ones legs at times, climbing up
spiral staircases or long flights of steps. One
flight was about 800 steps in total to reach the
church door, but well worth it, even though it was
lightly raining. Very rural landscapes and great
distant views from defensive walls and church
towers.
Thursday: A day of concerted members papers,
including a presentation on 50 years of TIMS.
Including one by Erik Stoop on, Anton Bruggeneate,
who died in 1956 – a great European mills recorder,
responsible of over 20,000 sites excluding those in
the UK. Another interesting paper by Gabor Ozsvath,
‘Palinka Mills in the Carpathian Basin’ of
Transylvania. These are mills associated with the
distilling of plums into ‘palinka’. No trip to
Romania is complete until a sip of palinka has
passed your lips. In the evening, I gave my short
presentation on ‘Intermediate Mills’. More of that
for HMG members later. Kerr Canning from Canada was
another member presenting his research on tidal
mills in Nova Scotia.
Friday: Another day of formal paper presentations
and evening informal papers, including one by John
Boucher (UK) with ‘Osmaston Manor- Early use of
water power on an English country estate’.
Following lunch, a few hours break to catch up any
missed mills and other structures within the ASTRA
park.
Saturday, our last day of formal presentations,
taking the total to 30. The final paper by Mihkel
Koppel (Estonia), on ‘Windmills on Estonian
Islands.’ In the evening the usual raucous farewell
dinner, held at the local Han Tulghes restaurant.
Sunday: Departure for many participants, where-as
many awaited departure for the Post Symposium Tour
to the mountainous region to the south (14th to 20th June). Joan and
Peter Hill (Sussex) and myself, decided to catch a
bus into Sibiu for some more sightseeing and a
little shopping for folks back home. A rather busy
and vibrant city centre, showing some affluence in
the past few years. Due to only two direct flights
to and from UK to Sibiu per week, I and the Hills
had to wait until Tuesday to get home. That was no
hardship, so I used the Monday to trek to the next
town south via the abandoned old tram route to
Rasinari, at the base of a range of hills about 9km
away.
Many
well-kept, old houses and dirt roads but with modern
services being installed, like mains drainage,
pavements and new concrete bridges which left parts
of the town like a building site. Rather annoyingly
I found no signs of a water mill by following the
river up through the town. The bus ride back was
only the equivalent of 20 pence, as was the price of
a banana.
This report does not do justice to the great variety
and scale of volunteer mill recording and research
carried out by TIMS members around the world. One
has to experience this first hand at a Symposium
every four years, or simply join TIMS to learn more.